Step into Ebisu Mini Japan in Towson and you’re greeted by a ceiling-high wall of expensive anime figures, like Goku from Dragon Ball Z or Ash Ketchum and Charizard from Pokemon, roped off from shoppers not unlike a painting at a museum.
As I wander deeper into the store and explore the aisles, the word I keep coming back to is “delightful.”
The colorful bags of chips adorned in Japanese writing and in flavors like avocado or black truffle? Delightful.
The Pikachu-stamped noodle bowls? Delightful.
The plushie key chains, kawaii gel pens, aisles filled with collectibles and upbeat, unobtrusive Japanese music playing overhead? All of it, delightful.
Ebisu is not a grocery store. You don’t go there to buy staples. But it is chock full of just about anything else you could imagine.
There are pens and stationery, home goods, supplies for cleaning your car, sunscreen, beauty products, coffee, tea, kitchenware and so much more.
The market opened at 424 York Rd. in October, and business has been good ever since, George Dong, a store manager, told me.
Ebisu, which has its first store in Rockville, chose to expand to Towson because of the many students at nearby universities and other young people living in the area, Dong said. That’s their target shopper.
“People love all the anime,” he said.
The most exciting days in the store, Dong said, are Thursdays and Fridays. That’s when they get new shipments in.
I make no secret about being a gigantic nerd — I obsessively track the books I read in an app and still play Pokémon Go every day. So maybe I’m predisposed to finding Ebisu Mini Japan a delightful experience — I’m one of those target shoppers.
Around every turn, looking down every aisle, I found at least one item I’d have happily purchased if I had an unlimited budget. At the front of the store, that might have been a keychain with Disney’s Stitch on it. In the snacks aisles, it could have been specialty Japanese coffee or a bag of plum-flavored ribbon candy.
When I visited the store around lunchtime recently, I was far from the only person browsing. The parking lot was full, and inside the store I saw a person around every turn scanning the shelves and a couple giddily identifying the character plastered on a bag of chips.
The market winds across three-ish floors. At the top is a room full of claw machines and a wall of prizes, if you’d rather play for a plush than pay for one. A floor below that are stationery and other school supplies, including backpacks.
Down another set of stairs is the beauty section, with makeup and sunscreen. Admittedly, not a section of the store I spent much time in, though I will be back to purchase sunscreen for the summer. And step down from that half floor, and you’re on the largest level of the market.
In the front of the store, where you walk in, are the toys and collectibles. Most are boxed up and part of a mystery set, so you don’t know what character you’re purchasing. The element of surprise is just a bit addictive — don’t ask my wallet how I know.
Behind that are shelves of dishes, chopsticks, mugs, soaps, glassware, food storage and other home goods. Walking the aisles, I had the thought of how perfect this store would have been for decking out my dorm room at Towson University nine years ago.
And then, also on the ground floor, are the snacks, drinks, noodles and candy. There are brands that Americans will recognize, like Lays and Oreo, even if the flavors might be less familiar.
There’s a whole section dedicated to ramen and other instant noodles, walls of soda and bottled teas and freezers filled with novelty ice creams.
Taking in the bright packaging and discovering each new flavor is, you guessed it, a delight. It’s also the part of the market that most benefited my coworkers when I returned to the newsroom with a bag of assorted snacks.
As a group, we sampled peach- and grape-flavored Oreos, avocado and cheese-flavored Doritos, “Finger Licking Braised Pork”-flavored Lay’s chips, pepperoni pizza-flavored chips, honey and yuzu candies and, of course, chocolate Pocky.
Some were surprisingly divisive. One colleague said the pizza chips tasted like “a hot belch,” while another called the flavor “understated” compared to those in American snack foods.
The avocado-flavored Doritos tasted, to my palette, more or less like a creamier Cool Ranch Dorito. Oreos got mixed reviews, with some unable to finish an entire cookie and at least one coworker comparing them, favorably, to Skittles candy or something else that you’d nibble on from an Easter basket.
The clear favorites were the pork chips. People seemed drawn to them for the subtle flavors after the initial bite — you can taste the flavors of a marinade that you’d use to actually make pork.
I thought the prices were reasonable, but colleagues who have shopped at other Asian markets, both in the area and in cities bigger than Baltimore, said some things were a bit pricier at Ebisu than expected.
Still, though, for less than $55, I got six snacks to share with the newsroom, a small gift for my wife and instant ramen to try for dinner. The ramen cooked in less than 3 minutes and made a quick meal with an egg poached in the broth. The broth was richer than the Maruchan instant ramen I’m used to buying at Giant.
The most expensive item I purchased was a Pokemon collectible — I couldn’t help myself. It was another small delight, and I’m leaning into those these days.
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