Is Iceland cold? Expensive? Safe? What to know before you travel.

I stood shoulder to shoulder with my fellow tourists, iPhones locked on what appeared to be a large a puddle of water. Finally, a blue bulge rose toward the surface followed by an explosion of water several stories high. It wasn’t just Iceland’s most famous geyser, but the very life force of the planet itself, making herself known every five minutes.

A trip to Iceland can change the way you see the world.

Where else can you bask in amazing waterfalls, soak in a geothermal-heated spa and get up close and personal with a volcano in the same day? In a land of so many wonders, perhaps it shouldn’t come as a surprise that many residents believe in elves.

Thanks to low-cost carrier Play, which offers direct flights from BWI to Reykjavík–Keflavík Airport, it’s rarely been easier or cheaper for Marylanders to get there.

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Before I left on a three-night trip for The Baltimore Banner, I had some questions: How cold is Iceland? Should I rent a car? And would I get to see the northern lights? Now I have answers for your next adventure.

A blue bulge at the surface appears just before Geysir, Iceland’s most famous geyser, erupts. (Birta Sveinbjörnsdóttir/for the Baltimore Banner)

Will I see the northern lights?

A trip to Iceland teaches you that man does not control nature. Sure, you can stream a trillion TV shows on demand, but the hazy green northern lights won’t appear on command.

The aurora borealis is visible from around September through mid-April, when geomagnetic activity is high. Visitors need clear skies — and likely a primo nighttime location away from light pollution — to see it in all its glory. Several tour groups offer excursions to viewing spots, and many allow tourists who miss the lights to rebook on another night. Some hotels outside Reykjavík, such as the pricey The Retreat at Blue Lagoon Iceland, allow guests to request a wake-up call in case of solar action.

You also might see them on the plane from your flight in. Or, like me, you might miss it entirely.

Play Airlines will get you from BWI to Iceland for $135. It’s (mostly) better than you think.

The Icelandic wind can make already chilly temperatures feel even colder. (Birta Sveinbjörnsdóttir/for the Baltimore Banner)

How cold is it?

On my first, drizzling night in Reykjavík, my umbrella was rendered laughably useless, blowing in and out with every step.

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The wind in Iceland is no joke. I went in late January, when temperatures were several degrees colder than in Baltimore. But with powerful blusters — which actually shut down the airport for part of the day and led to Code Orange warnings on the roadways — it felt much, much chillier. I’d recommend thermal layers, wool sweaters, a windproof shell and a warm hat. For the unprepared, stores around Reykjavík such as 66°North sell cold-weather gear at premium prices, including cozy Icelandic sweaters. Don’t bother with an umbrella.

Take a quick trip from BWI to Iceland. (Rebecca Bradley for The Baltimore Banner)

How expensive is Iceland?

Even in highly trafficked tourist areas, I generally felt I received a good value for what I spent. The country uses the Icelandic króna, or ISK, with $100 equaling about 14,000 ISK. While certain things — such as gas, which was about $8.60 per gallon — cost more in Iceland than they do in the U.S., overall prices are comparable or less than in Baltimore. Rooms at the Grandi by Center Hotels in Reykjavík, where I stayed, run $200 to $300 per night. A large seafood entree at a trendy local restaurant cost me under $25, less than you would pay at one of Baltimore’s foodie hot spots (and there’s no tipping).

The Dish: The best eats in Iceland — and the one food you can skip

The gift shop at the geothermal-powered Friðheimar greenhouse. (Birta Sveinbjörnsdóttir/for the Baltimore Banner)

Is Iceland safe?

By some measurements, Iceland is the safest country in the world. With Iceland’s low crime rate, tourists can feel comfortable walking through Reykjavík and other areas at night — which is a good thing given how early the sun sets in the wintertime. Your biggest danger: the unpredictable elements.

Thingvellir National Park was the meeting place for Iceland’s first government more than 1,000 years ago. The park is also the only place on Earth where you can see two tectonic plates meet. (Birta Sveinbjörnsdóttir/for the Baltimore Banner)

Does everyone speak English?

Yes. Learning English, along with Danish and Icelandic, is required in Icelandic schools (as are swimming lessons). Want to make an effort anyway? Remember that “hæ,” pronounced like “hi,” works for a greeting and “takk” is a quick way of saying “thanks.” For goodbye, say “bless.”

Should I go to the Blue Lagoon?

This is purely up to you. I suggested readers should skip the famed Blue Lagoon in favor of other, less-touristy pools and spas. Plenty of others disagreed with that conclusion. Baltimore Banner reader Gislin Dagnelie took a post-Christmas trip five years ago during a howling windstorm and wrote that the Blue Lagoon was “one of our family’s most treasured vacation experiences.”

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Iceland’s Blue Lagoon is overrated. Here are 3 places to go instead.

Should I rent a car?

Probably, although I didn’t.

I tend to imagine the worst-case scenario, so after reading this New York Times column — in which the author describes being stranded in an Icelandic snowbank — I chose not to rent a car for my winter trip.

But not having wheels severely limits what you can see and do in Iceland. There are no trains, and many of Iceland’s best sites are only accessible by vehicle. Tour buses can hit all the major attractions, sure, but part of the experience of Iceland is the feeling of getting away from it all, which is hard when you’re in a crowd.

One solution is to rent a car with four-wheel drive and GPS. Additionally, be sure to check the forecast before heading out, and sign up for alerts. The weather can change in an instant. You don’t want the all-volunteer search and rescue team to have to come save you.

During my trip, I hired Birta Sveinbjörnsdóttir, an experienced guide and photographer, to take me around the Golden Circle. While leaving Reykjavík, we passed a warning to tourists on the side of the road: two burned-up cars left near a sign with a tally of those killed in wrecks. It served as a grim but important reminder: In Iceland, you don’t mess with Mother Nature.

christina.tkacik@thebaltimorebanner.com

Christina Tkacik

christina.tkacik@thebaltimorebanner.com